![]() ![]() Motor mounts are either generic meaning they are interchangeable between manufacturers such as P.Y.I marine or Bushings Inc. As boat engines get bigger, heavier, and more powerful, such as in a commercial engine, the thrust is removed from the motor or gearbox mounts and is taken up by a thrust bearing installed in the shafting. Generator mounts do not endure the same type of loading but suffer from their own gremlins such as gyroscopic influences. If the fishing trawler propeller shaft does not have a thrust bearing installed, the engine mounts are required to bear all the thrust of propulsion going forward or reverse even under severe load. In a stern drive vessel with a smaller horsepower engine, the inboard engine mounts will experience very little thrust force as compared to inboard engine motor mounts for a midsize fishing trawler with a straight drive. The design of engine mounts is determined by the applications. The importance of understanding the hardness is because the weight of the equipment resting on the mount determines the hardness of the rubber required. Like most measurements it is not just a straightforward 1 to 10 but a little more complicated than that. The rubber is available in various harnesses called shore and is measured with a durometer. Marine inboard engine mounts are stout, can endure large thrust loads, and will keep equipment in place even in severe weather conditions.Įngine mounts typically have natural or synthetic rubber pads or mount bushings that absorb the vibration. If anyone has had the fortune to experience two people simultaneously jumping on a trampoline or a diving board the effects are very similar. This constantly varying movement will range from the body masses being synchronous to opposing each other. Equipment mounts aboard vessels differ from land use equipment mounts in many ways because they have to with stand not only the movement of the equipment but also of the vessel. Engine mounts perform important functions such reducing engine vibration noise transferring into the hull, dampening the forward and aft shock movements derived from transiting through the waves, and a convenient method to align the drive train of the vessel, a few functions often overlooked or taken for granted. We install our engines and transmissions assembled in the trucks I work on using our big gantry. But after using the big gantry we have at work I'll never go back. I have used crane hoists (cherriepickers) for years. ![]() I have to admit I am excited about this project. I built the high stands to get better access to the hull bottom. I am also planning to make some lower stands to lower the boat a bit to help with clearance. Judging by the photos I agree that the wheels should be further apart as well. (not including the jumbo casters) I think tashasdaddy is correct about adding some angle braces. To build it as I planned the steel tubing will be around $100 through the company I work for. I already have a 6" I-beam that will work I got from a friend. The reason I wanted to build my own is because of cost and design. I will definitely look at Harbor Freight again to see if I missed it. If I can find a gantry that will suit my needs for $150 you can your sweet patootee I'll buy it rather than building it. ![]()
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